As Americans we pretty much have a standardized view of Greek culture- well as long as you’re not Greek-american. We think of a culture dominated by extremely nationalistic people like those prevalent throughout the amazing movie “My Big Fat Greek Wedding.” We think about ancient statues and an extremely advanced civilization. All of this was present throughout my time in Greece, but I also witnessed an extremely beautiful side of Greece. Outside of Athens and Piraeus lie the Greek islands, which each have their own personality and beauty. Here’s an account of my time on both the “mainland” as well as in Santorini.
Day 1
I got a rather late start my first day in Greece. My trip wasn’t due to leave until 12:30 so I didn’t really heed my alarm clock too well. But Liz and Katie’s urgings to get my butt out of bed eventually did work, and at around 10:30 we did make our way out into the port of Piraeus where we docked. I stepped out into that heavy heat ready to seek out ferry tickets, and at first this task made for quite an adventure. However, we eventually did find a travel agency that helped us to procure our tickets. Tickets in hand, Liz and Katie decided to go off and explore. However, Eric and I had to make our way back to the ship for a quick lunch. After scarfing down the typical sub-par ship food, Eric and I made our way to the buses to set off on our day’s trip with SAS.
The majority of our day was spent exploring the New Acropolis Museum as well as the National Archaeological Museum in Athens. Our bus set off for the journey relatively on schedule, and both Eric and I took a quick power nap on our journey into the city. Upon arrival we were brought to the New Acropolis Museum, which is a museum built entirely upon a current archeological site. Due to that fact it is elevated, while excavations take place underground. The entrance to the museum is surrounded by views of the excavation, and I could feel my love of archeology brimming to the surface.
However, once inside the museum my exhaustion took over, and I wasn’t nearly as interested in following a tour guide for an hour and a half. Thus I set off by myself after following the guide for about twenty minutes. This museum was my first encounter with truly ancient artifacts. I gazed in awe at artifacts from 3000BC, or oftentimes even older. It was truly spectacular to witness history and such great human artistry. I wandered around for a while before reaching the top floor, and getting my first view of the Acropolis. It was truly spectacular to witness it, and I was so excited to go view it. Yet that would have to wait until my last day in Greece. Afterward, I returned to the designated meeting place set forth by the guide, and eventually then made my way back to the bus with the group. Overall, I must say that I was not very impressed with this museum. Yes, it was impressive and yes it was beautiful, but I found our next destination far more interesting. Next stop-the National Archaeological Museum.
Boy was I excited for this museum. I heard about it from so many professors, referencing its superb collection of artifacts. Indeed it did not disappoint. I was fully charged for this great museum, as reflected by my following the guide like a puppy dog for quite a while. However, eventually in the interest of time, I broke off on my own to observe as much of the collection as was possible. It was so spectacular, and I took tons of pictures! There were ancient statues, projectile points, pottery, jewelry, and so much more! I could have spent hours there, however our guide set a designated meeting time and I did have to oblige by it. But before this could occur, I made sure to visit the gift shop.
Typical of most gift shops, the items were indeed very overpriced. Yet my friend Eric and I found an item we both really liked. It was a remake of a fresco displayed in the museum, and was very beautiful. He was just about ready to fork over the 50 euros we thought it cost, when we discovered that it was really 500 euros. Woops. So off we went, without spending any money. Yet, right outside our bus’ meeting point was a souvenir shop stuffed with much cheaper remakes. Eric went in and came out with a nice big one for his mom. All of the faculty members on our trip got a big kick out of this since he proudly showed off his mother’s present, all the while wearing his “I still live in my mother’s house so go to your own apartment” t-shirt. The irony made them all laugh. A few minutes later we jumped on the bus and snoozed again during our travel back to port.
Dinner was followed by a short nap which was followed by Liz knocking on my door once more. This time, as I was watching my big fat Greek wedding on the shipboard television network, she discussed how she found the equivalent of a “best buy” where we could hopefully buy new chargers. Like an idiot I forgot one half of the charger for my dad’s netbook at home, and Liz was just the victim of bad luck since her charger had simply given out on the ship. So off we went to explore the local electronics stores, and after a few tries we both came out satisfied. Back to the ship we went for more nap time, as well as packing time since we had a 23:59 ferry to catch.
At around 22:45 Liz, Katie, Eric, and I all left the ship and caught a cab. After a little confusion we arrived at the extremely lengthy line leading to the ferry’s entrance.
Day 2
Our Anek lines ferry, which cost us 34 euros for passage to Santorini (also called Thira), allowed us to board around 23:00, yet we did not leave until 01:30. In the meantime our group spread out on the floor in economy class, and tried to get some sleep, despite the absolutely freezing air conditioning that was blasting through the vents. We weren’t alone in this endeavor, since there had to be at least 75 semester at sea students who were also in the giant room of tables and chairs where we spent the night. Suffice it to say it wasn’t the most comfortable sleep of my life. I woke up multiple times, mostly from the freezing cold of the ferry. Eventually we all woke up and moved upstairs to the outside deck, where clearly that night people had been partying very hard. Tables were strewn with empty bottles of liquor and beer.. Well we found a clean one and relaxed there, waiting to finally arrive in Santorini. Finally around 08:30 we arrived, and after a bit of pushing and shoving to get off, we set foot on Santorini soil.
Now if you’ve ever seen the film The Sisterhood of the Traveling Pants, then you’ve seen parts of Santorini. It was this movie that inspired me to visit the island in the first place, and it truly lives up to its reputation as one of the loveliest places in the world.
Upon arrival in Santorini we found a taxi to take us to our hotel. As we traveled up, up, up the winding road leading we were treated to a spectacular view of the harbor. Now originally I thought that we would be able to reach any part of the island via walking. Boy was I wrong. Our taxi ride to our hotel, The Holiday Beach Resort, near Perissa beach took us about twenty minutes. Yet the entire ride was super enjoyable since we were treated to all sorts of views. Mainly of the countryside, which was so very different from the main cities. I remember learning from my Anthropology of the European Mediterranean class from Stony Brook about the fact that many Mediterranean societies converge in big cities, and that the concept of “the suburb” was basically nonexistent. This was extremely apparent throughout this drive.
We arrived at our hotel in awe of how pretty it turned out to be. The Holiday Beach Resort, although relatively inexpensive, offered some very nice accommodations, and we took full advantage from the very beginning. The ground floor of the hotel had a small kitchen/restaurant area where we enjoyed and inexpensive and somewhat traditional Greek breakfast. Afterward we decided to take full advantage of the nice pool for a few hours prior to our room being ready. It was so nice to just relax, especially after such a gruesome journey. I just loved to stare at the hotel with its white plaster facade flanked with bright pink flowers growing all over the sides mimicking ivy. It was just such a beautiful sight to behold. When our room was ready we were equally impressed with what we found. Our room had four beds, a decent size fridge, and PLENTY of space. It was just so nice to spread out after being cramped on the ship for so long. Our only complaint was that the bathroom was poorly designed, and the shower would get the toilet wet when it was on. After stowing our belongings, and a quick stop at an ATM and grocery store, we decided to make our way to the black beach called Perissa.
After about a 10 minute walk we arrived at Perissa beach and all of us absolutely loved it! Yet, before we could venture out onto it we decided to grab a bite to eat. We browsed the restaurants until we found Meteora, a great traditional Greek cafe. We all ordered specialty drinks, and collectively decided that Katie’s fresh banana juice was by far one of the best things we’ve ever tasted. Our entrees of gyros and moussaka were equally awesome, as well as cheap! We chowed down happily, and couldn’t helped smiling when the store’s proprietor shouted “Fire, fire, fire, fire!” whenever someone ordered watermelon.
Eventually we did make it to the beach. The sand was extremely hot so we rushed across it to find a spot to lay out our towels. Hot, hot, hot! Not even our flip flops didn’t help much! After putting our stuff on the beach we literally ran to the ocean to cool our feet off. We were met by some of the clearest, most beautiful water I’ve ever seen. After wetting our feet we returned to our towels and sunbathed for a little while. After relaxing for a decent amount of time we decided to brave the cool water for a swim. We even decided to be a tad European and bare our upper halves like some of the other sun worshipers present. Eric tried his best to be respectful, haha! Essentially this was the pattern of our afternoon-sunbathe, swim, sunbathe, swim, drink water and apply more sunblock. Overall a very relaxing and nice day.
We made our way back to the hotel around 18:00, and were so glad to shower and get ready to go to dinner. We decided to take the bus to Thira, one of the main cities on the island. The buses took forever to arrive, and when one finally did it was so packed that we couldn’t make it on. However, another came by shortly after. In the meantime, between buses, I saw a donkey down the road from the bus stop and of course had to run off and take a few pictures. I got some awesome shots. Anywho, when the bus finally did arrive, we got on and enjoyed the 20 minute journey to the city. Thira was not as picturesque as I thought it would be, but it was still very beautiful, and so lively! We wandered from shop to shop looking to buy some goodies, and I was particularly happy when I found a few. Eric also managed to find a few liquor stores along the way, where he was convinced he could find “real” absinyth. Lucky for us he didn’t, but he did manage to get a tad tipsy and would then wander into stores where we had to convince him not to buy useless Spartan hats. He did, however, manage to buy a 30 euro spartan that came to be his pride and joy.
After about two hours in Thira, we decided to make the last bus back to Perissa. Eric however almost ruined this possibility. Once again when the bus arrived the throngs of people waiting to get on it made it particularly difficult to get on. Yet Katie, Liz, and myself all managed, yet Eric felt obliged to let on a bunch of other people first. We then were forced to get off to stay with him, and yelled at him as to why didn’t he get on. His answer: “I didn’t want to separate any groups.” He didn’t consider that WE were a group. Liz and Katie weren’t too thrilled, but luckily the bus driver, noticing the huge amount of people still hoping to get on, told us that another bus was being sent our way, and sure enough a little while later we were on our way back to the hotel.
Liz and Katie, exhausted from the long day, decided to pass out in preparation for our tour tomorrow. We had booked an excursion earlier in the day at a travel agency across the street from our hotel. It was to start at 10:30am the next morning, and they wanted to catch some shut-eye. Eric and I however wanted to go out for at least a little while.
So we started first at the hotel bar, where we tried some traditional Greek beer. At the bar we met some Australians who were going to “Young Bar,” a bar owned by the hotel staff that was just down the road. We told them that we would meet them there. So a few minutes later we walked over to young bar, and made friends with a few of the stray dogs that called the area home. In fact, by the time we arrived, Eric managed to have one dog in particular follow him the entire way to the bar. It even ended up hanging out just outside of the bar for while. At the bar we had a really interesting and fun time talking to a bunch of Aussies, a Swede girl, and a Mexican girl who were all visiting. To help Eric out I asked them about their heroes (he needs to interview people in port for a class), and it was so interesting to hear their different answers which were completely foreign to me. After a bit of time I walked back to the hotel, with a little dog in tow. Upon arrival at my door I felt the need to tip him so out came a few Cheetos, and then it was off to bed for me.
Now I just think its worth mentioning that there are stray dogs everywhere in Greece, and they are pretty much collectively owned. The people all seem to pitch in and take care of them by feeding them and giving them water. So I felt obliged to do my part, and to thank the little dog who kept me company. Plus he just looked hungry and I felt bad.
Day 3
Bright and early that morning we were up and getting ready to go. We each had a quick and cheap breakfast courtesy of our grocery trip food, and headed across the street to grab our bus. We finally made it on around 11:00, since the bus was late of course. Shortly thereafter we were brought back to the port we left the day before, and climbed aboard an old fashion looking sailboat. This is how we began our excursion that day.
First stop-the volcano island. Right off of Santorini is the remains of the caldera from the volcano that created the island. Our boat dropped us off at this island, and we climbed up and explored. The views were so incredible and I was sure to take tons of pictures. Katie, Liz, and I hiked for about an hour, while Eric slept off the night before on the boat. At the top of the island we could see all around, yet we had to steady our ground since the strong winds attempted to blow us away. One of our favorite aspects of the day was seeing sulfur steam rise out of the side of the island, indicating just how powerful nature could truly be.
After our excursion to the volcanic island we hopped back onto our boat and then were whisked off away to the hot springs near the island. Now no one prepared us for what we would see here. Upon arrival Katie and Liz jumped off immediately, with a promise from me that I would meet up with them once Eric was out of the bathroom. Finally, Eric came out and we jumped off the boat to swim toward the springs. Eric only made it about half way-being tired and all-as well as rather disgusted by the insane amounts of sulfur in the water. I was also a bit weirded out by it, but I kept swimming. After a few minutes of my slow swimming I saw Liz and Katie. The water was rather warm, yet was no where near “hot.” However, we did swim around a little bit, and then decided to go find Eric. It wasn’t very difficult. There he was on a rock, trying to catch his breath. We laughed at him, and then began to make our way back. When we did reach the boat we were met by an unpleasant surprise. The massive amounts of sulfur in the water had dyed our bathing suits, as well as every surface of our bodies, a nice orange color. We tried to get as much of it off as possible, but to no avail. We decided to try and rinse off when we got a chance.
A few minutes later we arrived at another island where we were given free time to eat and shop. I believe the island was called Thirissa, and it was just off the coast of Santorini. There we grabbed lunch at a cafe along the beach, which was relatively okay. Though we were not used to the slow service that seemed to coincide with island life. After lunch we decided to brave the huge rocks along the shore and try and rinse off for a little bit. I attempted, and wiped out a bit, and when I got out I noticed a nice little cut on my foot. No idea how I did that. Well suffice it to say I didn’t go back in.
At the directed time we climbed back aboard our boat, after having browsed a few of the shops on the island. We all settled in and decided to nap for the duration of the trip to Oia, our final stop. About thirty minutes later we jumped off, and were told about the next leg of the excursion. We were told to meet up around 20:30 at a famous square. Yet, there was still the question of how do we get up to the town. The port where our boat left us was a rather decent, as well as steep walk, from the top of the town. Luckily for us, there were donkeys waiting for us at the foot of the pathway up. Of course Katie, Liz, and I decided to hop on, while Eric opted to run. Well, let me just say that I was so glad to have ridden the donkey-for a number of reasons. First of all, it was an experience. Yes, I was absolutely terrified, as verified by the pictures my friends took of me, but I will most definitely never forget it. Secondly, as confirmed later by Eric, the walkway up was simply strewn with donkey feces. Anyone attempting to get up to the town by foot would be forced to dodge it the entire time. Finally, it just reminded me of the scene in the movie The Sisterhood of the Traveling Pants when Lena first arrives on a donkey. It was just such a surreal moment.
When we reached the top we explored for quite a bit, ducking in and out of stores. I took tons of videos of us just walking through the many roads in Oia, just because it was so incredibly beautiful and charming. Finally we took a break to enjoy some fresh juice once more in a little cafe off a random side-street. After a little more shopping it was time to walk to a place to view the sunset. Once we found one we were strangely unimpressed. Being on a ship and traveling to many different countries certainly spoils a person. Especially when it comes to sunsets, and I can most certainly say that I saw so many beautiful sunsets throughout the course of this journey that the one that night didn’t really live up to them. After we watched it for a few minutes we decided to walk back in the direction of the meeting place set down by the tour company. On the way over there was an ice cream shop. I resisted at first, but then Eric gave me the rest of his and it was so delicious. Of course I took a lactate pill, but apparently it decided not to work. Thus by the time we reached the main square we were to meet at my stomach was feeling rather great-not. Suffice it to say that it wasn’t exactly the most comfortable bus ride of my life, especially since we had to make a bunch of stops to let out people at other hotels. However, I will always remember getting sick at the square featured in Sisterhood of the Traveling Pants.
Once we got home we decided to make use of the wine we bought the day before, and then set out once more after a quick shower. Boy did it feel good to get the sulfur off of us. The orange grime stained the shower’s floor. Once we were ready we all ventured toward the restaurants in town and decided to get some food. Our stomachs full we walked toward the beach once more, where we were met by a couple of Brits who wanted us to join them in a game of volleyball. It was a lot of fun, and afterward we decided to walk with them to “The Beach Bar.” However, Eric and I did stop halfway to try another traditional Greek beer- I wasn’t too fond of it. When we got there, Liz and Katie were already having a great time dancing to the European club music at this bar on the shore. We all ended up at the beach at some point or another and were in absolute awe of the extreme beauty of the stars that night. Never had I seen so many! It was so beautiful! Eventually we all made our way back to the hotel, and passed out since we knew that the next day was going to be yet another busy one.
Day 4
Now Santorini is renowned for its many amazing beaches. I particularly loved Perissa Beach also known as the black beach. However, when it comes to exploring the additional Red Beach and White Beach, I would definitely recommend more time. I certainly could have used it, because come the next morning I was just too tired to wait for a bus and then travel and then wait again for another bus. So our group’s early risers, namely Katie and Liz, wandered off to try and reach the Red Beach, while Eric and I decided to instead take it a bit slower that morning. After checkout we headed back over to the Black Beach where we decided to splurge a little (7 euros) and rent an umbrella and two nice lounge chairs.
Boy was it worth it. I cannot begin to describe just how peaceful and tranquil it was to simply sit for a few hours by the beauty of that beach. It’s crystal clear waters, bright sunlight, and slight crashing of the waves made for a scene that I will never ever forget. I even made sure to record our lounge chairs and parasol on my video camera, since I wanted to preserve that picture forever. After a couple of hours on the beach, Eric and I headed back to Meteora, the restaurant we went to on our first day. Our original reason was to hopefully grab some fresh banana juice, however they were out when we arrived. So we settled for fresh watermelon juice for me and fresh pear juice for Eric, along with a lamb gyro for me and a chicken gyro for Eric. Another absolutely delicious, and inexpensive meal!
Time was running short, and we unhappily gathered our things, and hastened back to meet Katie and Liz at the hotel in time for our 2:30pm courtesy transfer to the port. Katie and Liz had a good day at the Red Beach, and showed us a few pictures from their day’s adventures. While we were waiting for our transfer and sharing the day, we were met by our friend Tim from Australia. He was visiting family, and made friends with us a few nights before at Young Bar. We talked with him for a while about cultural differences, which made themselves incredible apparent when he asked us to clarify the definition of the word “douche-bag.” Suffice it to say we laughed a lot, and then told him.
From there on out, our day was relatively uneventful. While we waited we were met by a few Semester at Sea students who decided to stay with us the whole time. As Katie and I updated our blogs and journals, Eric and Liz joined them in all sorts of games, and Katie and I laughed as we watched. The ferry was another grueling 7 hour haul, but at least this Hellenic Lines boat was far more comfortable. Finally around 00:30 we arrived in Piraeus, and were back on board shortly after, since our walk was only about 15 minutes back to the ship. All of us were utterly exhausted, and were happy to take a shower and then sleep.
Day 5
Everyone back home knows that I’m a later riser. I love my sleep, and I already was sacrificing it a lot this summer, especially with an 8am class. So I decided to sleep in a bit, and make my way out to explore the Acropolis and Athens around 13:00. Eric came with me, since he also hadn’t yet seen this ancient marvel.
After a short walk to the metro station, we had our tickets in hand, and simply had to wait for the metro to come. Shortly thereafter it did, and within a half hour we were at the foot of one of the world’s most ancient sites. Perched on top of a great steep mountain/hill (I don’t know what it would be classified as) is the remains of the Acropolis. The ancient remains were absolutely breathtaking! I will always remember climbing the stone steps leading higher and higher up the complex. Though I won’t appreciate the extreme heat I did it in. Yet the temperatures I endured were well worth it, since the view from the top was so spectacular. I made sure to take tons of photos for sure! Everywhere you looked you could see Athens, and the proud, beautiful, and epic remains of one of the world’s greatest treasures. The archeological buff inside me was simply jumping with excitement!
After we thoroughly explored the complex, Eric and I headed down to do some shopping with the remains of our Euros. First, dehydrated as we were, we stopped for some more fresh juice and bottles of water. Then it was off to shop! We flitted from store to store, examining all the wares, and it was one of those times that I actually let myself by a few nice souvenirs. I’m particularly happy with the print I got of Santorini, and the various evil eye jewelry I got! Anywho, after Eric tried a few Spartan hats, and purchased a few more random items for his mom and other family and friends, we decided to head back toward the metro. It came relatively quickly, leaving us just enough time to stop at the local McDonalds! As you may be aware by now, I am trying to get it in every port, and so far I’ve only been unsuccessful in Croatia (I didn’t see a single one) and in Egypt (it was just to inconvenient to go to the only one I saw). But Eric let me stop, and I was so awed by their menu that I took pictures of it. Honestly shrimp burgers? As much as I LOVE shrimp, I don’t know if I could picture it on a burger. I simply ordered by usual fries, made a comparison (very nice and fluffy yet still very crispy on the outside, probably my second favorite after Spain), and continued the walk to the port. With plenty of time to spare, I swiped my card, and began preparations for my midterm the next day, tired yet certain I would return to Greece again someday.